"Lisk"

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Kigurumi stuffing

I got to know the existence of kigurumi around 2016, but only eventually dived into the hobby late 2019. My first mask (leftmost, orange hair) was a homebrew based on facial features resembling TDA Append Miku. She took quite a while to finish, and was unfortunately short-lived; still, she underwent multiple modifications which eventually turned her into the anime-styled FFXIV au'ra as seen in the picture.After the demise of my first mask, I made and settled on this cool-looking cyber-elven for over a year, while prototyping other stuff.

I started creating "xiv-realistic" au'ra masks in early 2021. My first make was a "raen" type 4 (raen = white scales, #4 = pointy, curled horns) with chocolate-tanned skin. After I tested out solutions for the facial scales with this prototype, she was recolored in a lighter skin color (see below), and her makeup scheme gradually leaned to the gothic side.I also made a few light-tanned "xaela" (dark blue scaled) type 4 before eventually revising my workflow and remaking the models.

Improvements were made, and I finished the first few au'ra remakes in mid 2022. The raen #4 remake was my new favorite, and she's the first "Liskmake" to be seen at a con.

Upcoming projects:
- Liskarm (arknights, remake)
- Au'ra xaela #4 tan (remake)
I routinely post new pictures and progress peeks at my twitter.

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Mask and Prop Maker

I have been making cosplay props since around 2014, and I started making my own masks since 2019.My masks and props start with digital models. I use zbrush for sculpting and detailing, while structural components were usually designed and integrated with Fusion360 or Sketchup. The finished models are then divided into printable components, and 3D printed for prototyping and production.I use a mix of SLA UV resin and FDM PETG/PLA prints in my makes. SLA resin prints are of great detail but more expensive and requires outsourcing for large prints. FDM parts are printed in-house with which are cost-effective and have much faster turnaround time for prototyping. FDM prints with substantial striation are coated with epoxy filler to further smooth out imperfections and printing artifacts. The smoothed-out print is then primed with filler primer and sanded again before painting.I do use airbrush more often these days, but I am an lazy sloth and still prefer the three-can process of filler-primer, skin-colored premix paint, and matte top coat to finish everything. Mr. Super Clear Flat is still my primary matte top coat despite being more toxic and expensive than average off-the-shelf matte enamel.There's already a bunch of wig-rigging tutorial out there for kigurumi or oversized prop heads. Since my Au Ra masks are barely larger than a normal human noggin, I use Velcro patches to attach wigs to mask, and for easier care and better interchangeability, the wigs of my masks are modified normal wigs that can still be used in normal (human form) cosplay. I use airbrushed acrylic paint, plus some alcohol-soluble paint as well as watercolor pencils to finish the makeup and touch-ups.The scales on older masks are from Meduusat Studio, which are made of molded silicone. The scales of my newer makes are made of sculpted air-dry foam clay, and can be painted after surface is fully dried (for color-matching). integral scales are in the process of development and should ship Q3 2023. Horns are 3d-printed and either covered with epoxy filler, or layered with vinyl scale pieces to achieve realistic look.Here's a list of my favorite supplies/services:
- SUNLU (FDM filaments)
- Bondo all-purpose epoxy putty
- Rust-Oleum 2in1 Filler & Sandable Primer
- Montana Gold G1400-1440
- Mr. Super Clear Matte (UV cut)
- Craftcloud/3dpnxt (SLA print outsourcing)

模型塗料混色(Color blend preview)

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Commission info and faq

CURRENT COMMISSION STATUS:
ON HIATUS
I am not taking requests at the moment and will not respond to inquiries until further notice. Thanks for your patience and understanding.

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